BEAUTIFUL VIEW

Like humans, machines innards must be always healthy and clean. That's why the air filter is so important. When the device filters the air to fuel quality is not functioning properly, the incoming air with the fuel into the engine room is sometimes mixed with dust and disrupt the performance of the machine. The simplest cause engine 'coughed'.

For that, we should always be careful in choosing the air filter on the market. Indeed, maintenance is relatively easy, just remove the filter from the nest, then spray compressor. Only, if not treated properly, may not be very long service life.

Various brands of air filter is very abundant in the market today. Of which are made of cardboard and a standard vehicle spare parts. Listening to various types of air filters on the market, surely take care of different ways. Because of this, look at the trick to keep the filter clean and well maintained.

To filter made of cardboard, at best, just the remaining life of approximately 2500 km to 5000 km. The rest, should be replaced immediately. Because of the weakness of this filter, in particular the lifetime, the surface of the cardboard into 'hairy'. If this is allowed, soft flakes mixed with the dust that can come into the 'kitchen spur' alias combustion chamber. Side effects, the cylindrical surface will be scratched.

Caring cardboard filter, is relatively easy. Lift the filter from the nest, then clean with an air compressor. If necessary, use the edge of the filter handle of a screwdriver to knock the dust of the inherent loss of all.

Unlike the filter is made of sponge. Generally able to hold up to 15,000 miles or one year life. As light as this one, take care of him too easily. Dip a sponge into the water filter, and wash detergent use. Once completely clean, dry with aerated or dried in the sun but do not let the sun hit it directly. After drying, the filter ready to be installed again.

To filter made from cotton fibers, a different story. This one, rather treatment is expensive, due to be cleared to use a special fluid. For K & N for example, there is a solution of cleaner itself. Cleaning consists of a special soap and oil is, its use is rather special.

Once the filter is removed from his house, then the air filter devices pull until all the dust and dirt falling all. However, when the 'knock' the air filter, try using a soft ground, such as tires for example.

The next stage of the filter is flush with running water and then sprayed with a special soap solution. After settling for about 5 minutes, the filter is then flushed again with water. The process is repeated until the remaining washing water looks clear.

Before the application of the oil is done, the filter must be dried. There are two recommended ways, ie, the first with a hair dryer or a compressor, but with the wind pressure as low as possible. End of the treatment process of air filter covered with a special basting oil.

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THE MACHINATIONS of CEO Alan Mulally over the past two and a half years have given Ford a stronger balance sheet than the other two

domestic automakers—Ford alone said it didn’t need an emergency loan from the U.S. government—but the company’s relative fi nancial health hasn’t been refl ected in its rolling stock. Now, a series of recent new-car

introductions have us impressed, and optimistic, about Ford’s future. The fi rst, in December, was for the 2010 Fusion [see page 42]. Ford took the opportunity of a midcycle  update—usually an occasion for little more than a new fascia and some mild primping—to give its mid-size sedan, already earning kudos for its reliability, a surprisingly thorough makeover, topped by the addition of a very accomplished hybrid model that sets a new benchmark for fuel economy among family sedans and is also a

pleasure to drive. Next came three Detroit auto show reveals. The Shelby GT500 version of Ford’s restyled 2010 pony car should help keep the fi re burning for the Mustang faithful. Less exciting, perhaps, but far more impressive is the Lincoln MKT. It’s a platform mate to the Ford Flex, but it looks absolutely unrelated to that

AUTOMOBILEMAG.COM

www.fantamag.com

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The car door is a very important part of the vehicle to be treated, thus ensuring the safety and comfort when riding. Car doors often go unnoticed owners, whereas in case of damage can be dangerous.

As a result For example, if the glass is brittle rails so that water can get into the door and windows to make the driving mechanism of oxidation. So that when the ups and downs of the glass will feel heavy and must be assisted by hand. Not to mention the sound of creaking, and players can jam glass instantly. Likewise, the handle of the door, if the lubricant to dry out the door opening mechanism, the door will be difficult to open.

Things to Do

The following maintenance tips, you should be at least 6 months:

1. Provide necessary equipment such as a screwdriver plus and min, brushes, diesel, grease and lubricant spray.

2. Open the panel cover (door trim) with the glass down to the bottom. Open the bolt handle and the handle with a screwdriver plus. Then the player off the glass with a gouged lever pin.

3. Open the door with a screwdriver mencungkilnya min. For cars with 'power window' off switch. Note the glass casing (weather strip) clean disposable brush dirt and diesel. Wait until dry. Or wash with soap and water after cleaning with a dry cloth.

4. Clean teeth and brush with fat. Also gear drive motor to the use of power windows. Lubricate the player's arm, and this claim also.

5. Check the regulator shaft balancer, also top and bottom rail regulator drive shaft. Clean up with diesel and then spread with fat.

6. Set the glass is tilted by raising a glass and a half and loosen the two bolts under the counterweight. After that push the glass back and tighten the screw pengimbangnya.

7. Consider opening the outer door, check whether there is a shift if it is enabled. If yes, lubricate with a spray lubricant. When spraying, check all door openings to play outside and inside.

8. Check the door lock rod of iron. Especially the bottom of the drive key. Clean if corroded or dirty and spray lubricant.

9. If you are finished reattach the door panel, for the power windows do not forget to put the switch back.

fr.indosiar.com

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The air-polluting effects of internal-combustion engines were not  recognized until the early 1960s. Up until that time, improvements in power output and exhaust noise were the main areas of development.1 The driving force for change originated in the first measures to control air pollution, which were introduced in the smog-bound city of Los Angeles, USA. Controls for exhaust gases from motor vehicles were introduced in Japan and Europe soon afterwards. These early measures were focused on carbon monoxide (CO) and unburned hydrocarbon (HC).

The use of oxidizing catalysts to convert HC and CO has been mandated

under exhaust gas regulations in the USA and Japan since 1975. The main

components of the early catalysts were base metals such as Co, Cu, Fe, Ni, and Cr.2 However, these were found to degrade over time, and precious metal catalysts were introduced to address problems of sulfur poisoning and metal evaporation. Unleaded petrol was developed because it was found that the lead in petrol coated the catalysts and made them ineffective.

An exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system was introduced to decrease NOx emissions, but catalysts to remove NOx were not legally required until 1978. Regulations introduced in Japan (1978) and the USA (1981) required a further decrease in NOx emissions, and although the oxidizing catalyst system addressed HC and CO requirements, various controls in the engine were necessary to decrease NOx. As a result, power output fell and fuel consumption increased.

The first vehicle with a three-way catalyst was marketed in 1977, although it was not introduced for European cars until 1993. A system combining a three-way catalyst with electronic fuel injection (EFI) and oxygen sensors has now become the standard in petrol engines for cars. The three-way catalyst system reduces exhaust emissions after warming up, but recent legislation on emissions now requires a further decrease in pollutants, and reducing emissions at cold start is an important issue.

The science and technology of materials in

automotive engines

Hiroshi Yamagata

Woodhead Publishing and Maney Publishing

on behalf of

The Institute of Materials, Minerals & Mining

CRC Press

Boca Raton Boston New York Washington, DC

WOODHEAD PUBLISHING LIMITED

Cambridge England

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One of the most vital tool found in a vehicle is the brakes. I do not know any of the vehicles, because among the many causes of injury caused by motor vehicle, one of which are due to the brakes. Therefore must be observed if you want to travel with a good drive in the city or out of the city, should always pay attention to brakes that are on your vehicle, especially in the car.

According to Gunawan Indrajati, Service Manager at Toyota Tunas dibilangan Mampang located in South Jakarta, "there are a variety of things to do in a car braking system is disrupted, even at the extreme conditions that is, not the proper functioning of a number of indicators on the braking system can cause the brakes on the car relieved. "

If the braking system on the car does not work well, there are several possible causes for the occurrence of the matter, namely:

A. The brakes are worn-out canvas

Two. Available on a sliding caliper, usually dirty and rusty and do not work as befits the caliper.

Three. Not functioning due to caliper brake oil leak that there are rubber seals wear.

Because the system and how it works is quite complicated, it is recommended to bring the car to the nearest car workshops, or in a workshop that has been shown to improve the braking system. But if you only have to fix their own home, or while they are in travel, probably a good idea if the steps below:

A. Remove the tire from the axle of wheel (if the braking system with brake disc braking device then you might see,

if using the lid on Tromol Tromol or drum brake device must be opened first so that braking can be seen).

Two. After that check the brake canvas, but you should know before, which is still good brakes canvas and is not eligible to apply again. (Do brake replacement on canvas that has been damaged).

Three. If it appears there are no abnormalities seen on canvas brake, disc brake for that use, it does not tend caliper

function properly as a result of the sliding bolts rust even dirty, open the sliding bolt with wrench, then clean the dengankain clean and when there is rust you can clean them with a fairly coarse sandpaper and give it fat enough.

4. While in the braking system that uses Tromol,

likely the problem is in the wheel cylinder brake canvas as a starting point.

Five. Brake oil leak is usually so relieved to make the brakes, check the rubber seal found on the caliper, if there is oil wetting liquid rubber seal on the seal replacement done immediately.

To avoid the occurrence of the things that you do not want on your vehicle braking system, a good idea to do periodic checks on a routine basis at designated workshops. "It is recommended that periodic checks on the braking system performed on each vehicle reaches 10,000 miles, and a further 10,000 kilometers of each multiplier." Says Gunawan Indrajati close chat.

Ahmad Garuda

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The early history of transportation systems starts mainly with the horse drawn carriage.This was eventually surpassed by the invention of the automobile. Early automobiles had cabin spaces that were open to the outside environment.This means that the occupants had to adjust there clothing to allow for different weather conditions. Closed cabin spaces were eventually introduced which required heating, cooling and ventilating to meet customer expectations. Early heating systems

included heating clay bricks and placing them inside the vehicle or using simple fuel burners to add heat to the vehicle’s interior.Ventilation inside the vehicle was achieved through opening or tilting windows or the windscreen; vents were added to doors and bulkhead to improve air circulation and louvred panels were the equivalent to our modern air ducts. Air flow was difficult to control because it was dependent upon the vehicle speed and sometimes would allow dirty,humid air which contained fumes to enter the interior from the engine compartment. Cooling could be as simple as having a block of ice inside the vehicle and allowing it to melt! Eventually a number of design problems were overcome, these included air vents at the base of the  windscreen for natural flow ventilation and electric motors to increase the flow at low speeds. Eventually heat

exchangers were introduced which used either the heat from the exhaust system or water from the cooling system as a source, to heat the inside of the vehicle cabin. Early cabin cooling systems were aftermarket sourced and worked on evaporative cooling.They consisted of a box or cylinder fitted to the window of the vehicle.The intake of the unit would allow air to enter from outside and travel through a water soaked wire mesh grille and excelsior cone inside the unit.The water would evaporate due to absorbing the heat in the air and travel through the outlet of the unit which acted as a feed to the inside of the vehicle.The water was held in a reservoir inside the unit and had to be topped up to keep the cone wet otherwise the unit would not operate.The air entering the vehicle would be cool if the relative humidity of the air entering the unit was low. If the relative humidity of the air was high then the water could not evaporate.When the unit was working

effectively it would deliver cool saturated water vapour to the inside of the vehicle which raised the humidity levels.These units were only really effective in countries with very low humidity.

In 1939 Packard marketed the first mechanical automotive A/C system which worked on a closed cycle. The system used a compressor, condenser, receiver drier and evaporator (fitted inside the boot/trunk) to operate the system. The only system control was a blower switch.

Packard marketing campaign included:‘Forget the heat this summer in the only air-conditioned car in the world.’ The major problem with the system was that the compressor operated continuously (had no clutch) and had to have the belt removed to disengage the system which was generally during the winter months. Over the period 1940–41 a number of manufacturers made vehicles with A/C systems but these were in small volume and not designed for the masses. It wasn’t until after World War II that Cadillac advertised a new feature for the A/C system that located the A/C controls on the rear parcel shelf, which meant that the driver had to climb into the back seat to switch the system off.This was still better than reaching under the  bonnet/hood to remove the drive belt. In 1954–55 Nash-Kelvinator introduced air-conditioning for the mass market. It was an A/C unit that was compact and affordable with controls on the dash and an electric clutch.

Automotive Air-conditioning and

Climate Control Systems

Steven Daly

BEng, BA (Hons), IEng, Cert Ed, MIMI, LAE, MSAE

Amsterdam • Boston • Heidelberg • London • New York • Oxford

Paris • San Diego • San Francisco • Singapore • Sydney • Tokyo

Butterworth-Heinemann is an imprint of Elsevier

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When your car in a state of 'fit', it will issue a 'sound' normal engine and a steady voice. But, one day, your car out 'sounds' strange and 'mysterious'. You need to know that kind of 'sound' strange vehicles that could be indicative of disruption or instability in your car. 

The sound of squeaking

When you turn on the car, having no use for a while, or when the engine speed increases sound 'squeak'. Most likely the voice was coming from fan belt (fan belt) that slip, because 'it ketegangan' reduced. Try to set back and look at the field geseknya, if the surface is smooth and shiny, it means that the fan belt has lost its grip on the pulley. Therefore, immediately replace with a new fan belt.

Knocking or 'Metallic Rattling'

The term is often used for this type of 'sound' is ngelithik. This sound is caused by the combustion process is not perfect. Generally, the result of too low octane of fuel used or the engine overheating. Symptoms of excessive ngelitik can cause damage to the piston. If it sounds a little arise when accelerated, can be ignored. Even so, you should ask your mechanic to check the machine, for his ngelitik missing.

Timing Belt

The sound of knock 'Serious'

When the engine knocking noise like someone was hitting the iron, it could be your car's engine was damaged badly enough. Maybe metal (rod bearing) or piston damaged handlebars. Do not be forced to run a car, because it will aggravate the damage.

Hissing Sound

Could be one of the vacuum hose disconnected or leaking. Usually followed by tesendatnya spin machine. Detecting sound like this quite difficult, so the need of accuracy. Please re-enter the vacuum hose off, or just replace if it is leaking.

When the car brakes squeak sound

Although the car brakes work perfectly and canvas new brakes, it could be any noise 'squeaky'. Generally due to dirty geseknya surface. Try cleaning or replacing brake canvas that is designed to eliminate noise.

Inter-Metal Friction sound when braking

That means the layer or canvas brake friction surface is too thin, or even lost, resulting in inter-metal friction. This condition can lead to much reduced braking capability. Then, immediately replace your car brake canvas.

Hissing Sound "Power Steering"

This sound arises on cars with power steering, while the wheel rotated. Due to the shortage of oil or power steering pump power steering system damage. Generally followed by heavy rotation on the steering wheel. Add oil power steering, if less, or visit a special workshop to repair power steering.

Ban Checks

The knocking sound Turning The Front Wheel

These symptoms generally occur in cars driven by the front wheels. The cause, damage to the balls in the CV joint, since wrapping the rubber breaks, so that 'fat' alias gelpelumas in it have been exhausted. This condition will worsen if not immediately corrected.

The knocking sound When Moving Teeth 'Porsneling'

The sound of a knock that arise from under the car when moving the position of the teeth, stepping on the gas pedal or lift suddenly. Generally caused by damage to power the router system, engorgement of cross-axle joint or damage to teeth.

fr. KapanLagi.com

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